Thursday, September 17, 2009

Laser Cut and Lace: Back Stage at Jill Stuart Spring 2010

It was surprisingly bright on the morning of Monday September 14, with sun peaking through the giant beach trees that guard Byrant Park. Even in my sunny surroundings I felt the afterthought of sleep still under my eyes. It had been a long night toiling away at The Jill Stuart show room, helping with last minute alterations and changes for the spring 2010 runway show. The inspiration for the show had been developed month earlier with Jill Stuart leaning towards the style of the iconic singer, Cher.


As per usual the Jill Stuart collection featured a fair infusion of vintage, but this season Stuart's design team had worked on creating some drapey creations in metallic lame and spandex over denim. The collection hit many notes and included a wide array of materials: tweeds, studs, mesh, metal and some find laser etched leather. As an intern I became very accustom to the collections, but even with my knowledge of the pieces I had yet to see what would make the cut.



I entered the historical Bryant Park library, whose classic structure hosted the Jill Stuart collection for many year. With a flash of my full access pass, I found myself backstage amid towering marble walls. I entered the large banquet hall buzzing with make-up artist and models. Amid the click of shutter lenses, pale waif fairies narrowed their gaze and allowed the camera to capture their elken features.


Like a wall tapestry I watched the excitement as the banquet hall swelled with buyers, press, celebrities and stylist. In the midst of the mounting anticipation I decided to make my way back to the back stage area. In a tiny hallway of the library the dressing area was set up. Everyone was in place. The stylist who had help Jill curate the collection sat scrutinizing the Polaroids of the models, but there was no time to make any changes.


One by one the models appeared only to be undressed and then reemerged in a new skin. I peaked around to get a view of the clothes. I saw my favorite, a white linen and mesh cut out dress reminiscent of a storm trooper. It looked like sportswear and strayed from the frilly girl image Stuart had mastered over the years, but to me it represented a new direction with more edge.


Finally it was time for the show to begin. A few other interns stood with me around a pillar and watched as the models float to sweet techno beats. Later in the week this moment would be translated into fashion reviews. Some with harsh words, others mild, most with the sentiment that it was too much going on and too little covered. But to me a show is a show; you do not come to see the ordinary when it comes to fashion. You come to dream and leave expectations aside and envelope yourself in someone's artistic license. What I can say is that the models glided, that the metal chains over metallic crochet swung to just the right rhythm and that the color blocked pants looked sharp.



It was over in fifteen minutes. Stuart came out amoungst the applause and stood in the spotlight looking oddly vulnerable. She smiled to her husband and three daughters who sat within the front row and then with one more glance at the camera she left. The audience poured onto the run way, walking fast to glimpse the many socialites who had graced the library. Congratulations when on back stage to Jill and her diligent team who it seemed had succeeded in putting on a seamless show. I stuck around to see if anyone needed help, but like all of today everything was already taken care of. With nothing else to do and a creeping feeling of sleep, I made my way down the immense stair case and out to the forty second street exit. Outside greeted me with warm air and a sweep of people enjoying their lunch break. It seemed like nothing had happened and that I had only popped in the library to renew a book. Before I gave myself away to the midtown crowd I glanced back at the library. I felt a soft pang to go back in and see more of the fashion evolution, but I had already saw what I wanted. It was time to go home and digest things on my own.

All photos found on the internet

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